History, spirituality, and tradition blend in the ancient heart of one of the most captivating cities in the far Maghreb, where time seems to stand still and where narrow, winding alleys wind between palaces, mosques, Koranic schools, and bustling souks.
“A pure oriental dream city, a labyrinth of white alleys and hidden gardens.” This is how Edith Wharton described Fez in her book In Morocco (1920), revealing the irresistible charm of this city. The American author was enchanted by the mystical atmosphere that permeates every corner of the medina, a place that seems to belong to a distant era.
The French orientalist Pierre Loti was also enchanted, defining it in his travel diary Au Maroc (1889) as “a place shrouded in golden light, smelling of antiquity and mystery.” For the writer – this time Moroccan – Tahar Ben Jelloun, however, the medina of Fez is “a place where time seems to have stood still, where every stone, every street tells a story.” These are all descriptions that underscore the timeless nature of Fez, founded between 789 and 808 by the Idrisid dynasty, and which has remained one of the most emblematic cities in Morocco.
During its heyday, between the 13th and 14th centuries, Fez supplanted Marrakech as the capital, becoming a true cultural stronghold. The city is home to the University of Al-Qarawiyyin, a symbol of its intellectual and spiritual heritage.
Strolling through the alleys of the medina, protected by high fortified walls, means immersing oneself in a labyrinth of over 9,000 narrow streets. Here, time seems to dissolve amid the sounds, colours, and scents of the souks: markets overflowing with carpets, ceramics, fine fabrics, and brassware. As in past centuries, goods travel by donkey, helping to maintain the Arabian Nights atmosphere of this city, which continues to enchant visitors from around the world.
The historic centre of Fez, Fez el-Bali, is a maze of narrow, winding streets, a veritable medieval labyrinth where time seems to stand still. It is one of the largest medieval settlements still inhabited on Earth, and the largest in the Islamic world. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the medina is a masterpiece of Islamic urban planning, a microcosm where architecture, artisanal tradition, and daily life intertwine.
Access to the medina is through monumental, fortified gates: the most famous is Bab Bou Jeloud, known as the Blue Gate. With its intricate blue and green ceramic decorations, it represents the perfect symbol of Moorish aesthetics. Once inside, you enter a world that defies orientation: a labyrinth of narrow alleys, artisan workshops, hidden courtyards, and thousand-year-old mosques. Here, getting lost is part of the experience, and every turn reveals a new wonder.
Among the first essential stops is the Madrasa Bou Inania, an architectural gem dating back to the 14th century. Its stucco decorations, carved wood, and Zellige mosaics leave visitors breathless. A rarity in the Islamic world, this madrasa is also open to non-Muslims, allowing all to admire its sumptuous interiors.
Tahar Ben Jelloun poetically describes the essence of the medina, “There is a street so narrow that it is called ‘the street of only one.’ It is the entrance to a long, dark labyrinth, where the walls of the houses seem to touch at the top. People can move from one roof to the other effortlessly.”
Few places embody the artisanal soul of Fez like the Chouara tanneries, a vibrant symbol of Moroccan tradition. Here, the leather tanning process follows ancestral methods passed down from generation to generation. Goat, sheep, cow, and camel hides are first immersed in “white” vats containing lime and water to eliminate residues, then spread out in the sun and finally immersed in vividly coloured dye vats.
The pigments used are strictly natural: red comes from poppy, yellow from saffron, green from henna, and blue from indigo. The result is a kaleidoscope of colours that transforms the tanneries into a living mosaic, visible from the surrounding terraces. The pungent odour, tempered by mint leaves offered by traders, adds to the intensity of the experience.
At dawn, the first light of day reveals the hypnotic beauty of the place: donkeys laden with hides wind through the narrow alleys, while artisans, bare-handed and bare-footed, move with silent, precise gestures. The air is filled with the calls of the donkey drivers, the sounds of the water, and the echoes of traditions that defy the passage of time.
Fez is not only a centre of craftsmanship, but also a beacon of spirituality. The Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, is a symbol of Islamic learning. Considered the oldest university in the world, it has educated scholars and theologians for centuries.
Although entry is restricted to Muslims, its imposing structure can be admired from the outside, offering a glimpse of the grandeur of Islamic culture. Another sacred site is the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the city’s founder, revered as a saint. A pilgrimage destination, the mausoleum is a place of prayer and reflection, where the faithful come to ask for blessings and protection.
But Fez is also the custodian of a profound Jewish history. In the Mellah district, the Ibn Danan Synagogue and the Jewish cemetery speak to the millennia-old presence of a community that has left an indelible mark on the city. Not far away, the Royal Palace, though not accessible to the public, captivates with its majestic golden gates, a symbol of power and architectural refinement.
Finally, for a peaceful respite, the Jnan Sbil Garden offers an oasis of peace amidst fountains and exotic plants. Here, far from the chaos of the medina, visitors can find a moment of tranquillity, immersed in the beauty of a park that speaks of the harmony between man and nature. (Amina Benjelloun/Africa) – (Photo: Fez, Medina.CC BY-SA 4.0/Petar Milošević)
